Karl Herrligkoffer

Karl Maria Herrligkoffer (13 June 1916, in Schweinfurt – 9 September 1991, in Munich) was a German medical doctor, who from 1953 and 1986, organized and directed numerous German and Austrian mountaineering expeditions including 13 expeditions to five of the world's highest peaks in the Himalayas and the Karakoram. There were some notable successes on these expeditions including the first ascent of Nanga Parbat (8126m) (by the Rakhiot Face), and also the second and third ascent of that mountain (by the Diamir Face and the Rupal Face), the successful ascent of Everest (8849m) by 15 people from one expedition, the first ascent of the South Ridge of K2 (8611m), the first attempt on Broad Peak (8051m), and the first ascent of about 35 peaks during two expeditions to east Greenland.

The expeditions organised by Herrligkoffer gave many mountaineers their first experience of mountaineering in the Greater Ranges, notable examples are Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott and Hermann Buhl; Messner and Scott both went on to receive the Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award, one of mountaineering's highest honours. Buhl also established a reputation as a notable Himalayan mountaineer, being one of only two people to make the first ascent of two 8000ers and the only person to have made the first ascent of an 8,000-metre peak alone; he was awarded Austrian Sportsman of the Year in 1953 for these achievements.

However, many of these expeditions generated significant controversy and in some cases led to legal action between Herrligkoffer and some of the other participants.