Wolfgang Güllich

Wolfgang Güllich
Güllich on Ghettoblaster 8b+ (5.14a) X+, at Rabenfels, in the Frankenjura
Personal information
Born(1960-10-24)October 24, 1960
Ludwigshafen, West Germany
DiedAugust 31, 1992(1992-08-31) (aged 31)
Ingolstadt, Germany
OccupationProfessional rock climber
Height178 cm (5 ft 10 in)
Weight68 kg (150 lb)
SpouseAnnette Favery (m. 1991)
Websitewww.wolfgangguellich.com
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known for
  • First to climb consensus sport 8b (5.13d), 8b+ (5.14a), 8c (5.14b) and 9a (5.14d)
  • First to free solo 7c (5.12d)
  • Inventor of the campus board
First ascents
Updated on 29 November 2022

Wolfgang Güllich (24 October 1960 – 31 August 1992) was a German rock climber, who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of the sport. Güllich dominated sport climbing after his 1984 ascent of Kanal im Rücken, the world's first-ever redpoint of an 8b (5.13d) route. He continued to set more "new hardest grade" breakthroughs than any other climber in sport climbing history, with Punks in the Gym in 1985, the world's first-ever 8b+ (5.14a), Wallstreet in 1987, the world's first-ever 8c (5.14b), and with Action Directe in 1991, the world's first-ever 9a (5.14d).

Güllich was the first-ever person to free solo at grade 7c (5.12d) with his 1986 ascent of Weed Killer, and in that same year did his iconic free solo of Separate Reality. He made first ascents of important new big wall climbing routes on the Trango Towers and the Paine Towers. With long-time climbing partner Kurt Albert, he revolutionized the training techniques for sport climbers, and the introduction of the campus board in particular. Güllich carried the mantle of "world's strongest sport climber" until his death in a car accident at age 31.